The Best Juicers for Beginners New to Juicing

If you’re like so many other Americans, you probably know that your diet isn’t as healthy as it should be.  Too often, we sacrifice nutrition for convenience and, yes, taste.  Most of us would certainly prefer a chocolate chip cookie to a carrot, right?  Ignoring our body’s need for healthier fruits and vegetables, though, can lead to any number of problems.  Without proper nutrition, our bodies can’t do all the things they need to do to keep running at maximum efficiency.  Poor nutrition can lead to weight gain, loss of energy, digestive issues, aches and pains, and any number of more serious health issues.


If you’ve been thinking that you need to start making healthier choices, you might be considering juicing as a way to increase your nutrient intake.  Finding the right juicer can seem like a daunting task given the vast number of choices out there these days.  Taking a few minutes to understand the basic function of juicers can help narrow down the field for you.  If you understand your basic requirements, the choice can be limited to models that offer the optional features that you find the most appealing.

The function of a juicer is to separate the liquid contained in a fruit or vegetable from its solid components.  The best juicers are the ones that extract the most liquid.  Look for machines with the highest per-piece yield, as this will give you more juice from less produce.

Juicers come in many sizes and weights.  Make sure that you choose a model that will fit nicely and securely on your countertop or one that is light enough that you can easily move it from cabinet to counter and back again.

The juicer’s intake chute is something else to consider carefully.  Some have smaller chutes, requiring you to cut your produce into much smaller pieces before inserting.  If you don’t have the time to dice your fruits or veggies before juicing, consider a model that accepts larger pieces.  Models that accept the largest pieces typically have the most powerful motors, which tends to make them a little more expensive than their less powerful counterparts, but there’s nothing so expensive as the gadget we quit using because it was inconvenient.

When you look at a juicer’s capacity, there are two things to consider.  The first has to do with how much juice the reservoir can hold.  If you only want to make a glass or two at a time, you can opt for a model with a smaller reservoir, but if you want to make enough juice for the whole family or enough to last a few days, a small reservoir can be time consuming.  The other capacity concern is the pulp collector.  You will want to know how much pulp your machine can collect before that container needs emptying.  Obviously, different fruits and veggies contain different amounts of pulp and juice, but if you know that you only want to empty and clean the machine once per session, make sure both capacities meet your needs.

Ease of cleaning is the last major consideration.  The machine will need to be cleaned after each use, so make sure you know how much time and effort that will entail.

After the basics, there are features available on different models that might appeal to you.  Different finishes can make different models a better match for your kitchen.  A locking lid can help prevent leaks.  Variable speed motors can make more efficient work of different vegetables and fruits.  Some models are quieter than others.  Different models take different amounts of time to get the job done.  Noise and time are generally dictated by motor power, so it’s common to expect more noise and less time from more powerful models.

If you’re new to juicing, it might be wise to look for a model at the lower end of the price spectrum.  Making your first juicer a more basic model gives you a chance to get a feel for the process and learn what your favorite juices are.  This can make it easier for you to decide on the best upgrade when it’s time to buy your next juicer.

View this if you’re planning on getting the best Omega masticating juicer, or a different juicer type, model, or brand.

Common Myths about Homebrewing

Common Myths about Homebrewing

As there are so many untrue claims about homebrewing on the web, I would like to provide factual explanations about the most common myths.


  1. CaraMunich is made by caramelizing Munich malt                                                                                                                     munich-malt-and-caramunich


The first untrue claim I would like to address is that usual malts such as crystal differ from CaraMunich and CaraVienna. Allegedly, these brands are not made from pale malt but from the Munich malt or Vienna malt. The fact is that, in the beginning every malt is green. Therefore, this means that Weyermann’s medium-dark and medium-light caramelized malts are in fact the same as CaraMunich and CaraVienna that only have different copyrighted names.


  1. Citra tastes pretty much the same as every other “C” Hop

This is also not true Citra has a different aroma when compared to usual citrus-flavored varieties from Pacific Northwest. Citra offers a melon-flavored aroma, which is more tropical.  This is due to its high content of essential oils geraniol and linalool. Citra’s characteristic flavor is made when geraniol is turned into citronellol through the process of yeast activity.

  1. Entering homebrew contest is the best way new brewers can get feedback on their beer                               12015077_1145179472162319_4256657195957693821_o

At these contests, it’s hard to get feedback and constructive criticism. It’s most important to choose top beer. Judges need to make decisions quickly. If your beer has any flaws, you most likely won’t get any piece of advice how to make it better. Therefore, try offering your beer to a local brewer with experience. Otherwise, these contests are great if you want to find really excellent types of beer.

  1. Craft brewers do (insert technique) and use (insert technique) so homebrewers should aspire to as well

Commercially produced brew often uses techniques and equipment that just aren’t a good investment for the homebrewers. Certain processes would not give the same results. For instance, homebrewers cannot get as clean fermentation at higher temperatures as a craft brewer, as the ester production is being suppressed at higher pressure. Also, breweries often use equipment that might not be great for the homebrewer.


  1. I can’t taste the difference from (insert process) so no one should bother with it

How sensitive the sense of taste and smell are, varies greatly among people. If you aren’t able to taste or smell an ingredient, certain people are. According to some studies, many people aren’t able to taste diacetyl. Therefore, you should learn what ingredients you are sensitive to and in that way discover what you should put your efforts in.

  1. Kegging is a huge timesaver compared to bottling                                                                                                                maxresdefault-1

As for saving time, you will in fact spend a similar amount of time on either kegging or bottling. So, you won’t save much time kegging. Kegging seems quick, but you actually need to get the keg disassembled and sanitized. You also need to add CO2 to the tank. Kegging has its advantages otherwise.

  1. How hopbacks work

People use it in a number of wrong ways. One example of a wrong use is when people get the wort pumped in the hop-back, which they then return to the pot. With proper configuration, the heat is allowed to extract the essential oils. Then, the chiller makes the temperature start dropping before anything is destroyed.

  1. Brettanomyces make beer sour

This type of yeast creates acid but in a very small amount, contrary to what many people believe. So, fermenting beer with this type of yeast, doesn’t mean it will be sour. The bacteria that cause acidity are actually Lactobacillus and Pediococcus.

  1. Sugar should be included in recipes as a percentage by weight of the grain bill

Adding sugar in this way is wrong, no matter if it’s brown, maple, table or any other kind. Consider adding 20% of sugar to a Belgium tripel by weight that would not be right. When you think what amount of sugar to add, the best decision is to add sugar as fermentables’ percentage.

  1. Boiling wort for a long time caramelizes it

The fact is that sugars cannot be caramelized if the wort boils at the temperature around 213 F. It’s not hot enough. When it comes to caramelization of sugars, fructose will start caramelizing at the temperature of 230 F, making this the lowest temperature for caramelization. However, when it comes to Maillard reactions the process in which amino acids with sugars create effects resembling caramelization the boiling temperature is high enough. Certain types of beers that are boiled between two and four hours aren’t considered to be very malty despite boiling time.

These are some of the myths debunked. My advice is that you should try different things and see for yourself. Brewing good beer at home is just a matter of practice.

How to Get Started Homebrewing

If you are a new homebrewer and you’re not sure where to start then this might be the right place for you. The following process is easy and requires little to no effort and equipment. You can make good-quality beer by brewing it with malt extract. Follow these steps:


  1. Review

Before you start the process, read the whole recipe and each step thoroughly in order to make brewing beer easier and more efficient.

This particular tutorial is for German wheat ale, called Zaith Weizen. The tutorial will show you each step in the process of brewing. This applies to any extract-type brewing recipe. However, when it comes to other types of beer, processes of packaging and fermentation, the instructions might be different.

  1. Gather supplies

Get all that you need for brewing, including the ingredients and equipment. Use notes so that you wouldn’t forget anything

  1. Clean equipment

Before your start brewing, sanitize all that you’ll be using. Clean thoroughly using unscented cleanser. If the sanitation is improper, bacteria may spoil a whole batch of beer.


  1. Heat water

Take the boil pot and fill it with a gallon of water, which equals 3.79 L of water. Bring the water to a boil.

  1. Add malt extract

When the water reaches boiling temperature, take the pot from the heat. That will prevent malt extract from becoming scorched. Start pouring the malt extract and stir it. You shouldn’t let it collect on the bottom. Keep stirring until it dissolves.

  1. Return to boil

After having dissolved, put the liquid back to the heat.

  1. Add hops

When you see the liquid achieves rolling boil, put in bittering hops additions. They usually contain a label that specifies how long they take to be boiled completely.

  1. Sanitize equipment

In order to prevent any bacteria from spoiling the batch, you should sanitize everything that might come into contact with wort after boiling.

  1. Chill wort

When the liquid has been boiling for half an hour it turns into wort — the unfermented liquid that will create beer.

Take the sanitized fermenter and fill it halfway with cold water. Let the hot wort sit for five minutes and then add it to the water.

After that, start pouring cold water to the fermenter, until it reaches five gallons. Then, you should leave the wort to cool down. The temperature needs to decrease to 70–75 F, which equals 21–24 °C.

Avoid using the glass fermenter as it might shatter. If you do, then do not add wort if its temperature is 100 F.

  1. Pitch yeast

After the temperature of the wort has decreased, clean the yeast package and add yeast. If you choose Wyeast smack pack, the yeast should be activated at least two or three hours before you pitch it into the wort.

  1. Seal fermenter

Use an airlock and bung that you cleaned and sanitized beforehand and seal the fermenter. You won’t need a carboy bung if you use the bucket fermenter. Fill the airlock with sanitizer that doesn’t require rinsing, or with alcohol.

  1. Shake the fermenter

When you sealed the fermenter start shaking it for a couple of minutes so as to bring oxygen to the yeast. Then, try to prevent splashing of liquid.

  1. Store fermenter

During the following week or two, the liquid will be in the process of fermentation. Under the influence of yeast, fermentable sugars will turn from the malt extract into CO2 and alcohol.

You should choose a place to store the fermenter according to the temperature that specific yeast requires. Also, make sure that wort doesn’t get any light and keep it away from splashing.

The temperature should be 65-75 F (18.3-23.9°C). Ideally, it needs to be at the lower end of this range for this particular recipe.

  1. Monitor fermentation

After 12-72 hours, there should be visible signs of fermentation. You would be able to see bubbles around the airlock. CO2 a byproduct of fermentation causes these bubbles. Bubbling might stop or decrease but that doesn’t mean that the process of fermentation is finished.

There might also be frothy foam forming on top of wort. This is called Kraeusen and it’s one more sign that fermentation is underway.

In order to find out if the process of fermentation is over, it’s best to use hydrometer.

  1. Boil water

You can finally package your beer after three or four weeks it spent in the fermenter. You need to prime the beer so that it would become carbonated. You can achieve this by adding dextrose in a small amount. In this way, the sugar will become fermented by the yeast. This will make CO2 in the bottle and make the beer carbonated.

So, fill the pot with two cups of water (473 ml). Bring the water to a boil.

  1. Add priming sugar

Add 5 ounces (141.7 g) of dextrose priming sugar  to the boiling water. Let it boil for ten more minutes. If you have less than five gallons to bottle (18.9 L), use one ounce of sugar per gallon you are bottling.

  1. Add to bucket

Let it boil for ten minutes and remove from the heat. You should prepare a sanitized and clean bucket, to which you should add the priming sugar solution.

  1. Transfer beer

The next step is to transfer beer from the fermenter to the bucket for bottling. Use a racking cane or an auto-siphon and make sure these are clean and sanitized well.


The sugar should be equally mixed. To achieve this and avoid splashing, make a whirlpool in the bucket.

The bottom of the fermenter contains trub, the solid content, which you shouldn’t transfer into the bucket for bottling.

  1. Attach bottle filler

Before attaching bottle filler, ensure all the parts are thoroughly sanitized. Then, add it to the spigot of the bottling bucket. Use a small piece of food-grade tubing.

  1. Fill the bottles

Fill in clean bottles to the rim of the bottle neck and remove the bottle filler. Afterwards, the bottle should be filled about an inch from the top of it.

  1. Cap bottles

Carefully put the caps onto the bottles. Use clean bottle capper and caps.

  1. Store bottles

Bottles should be stored in room temperature so as to become carbonized. Store them at around 70 F (21.1 °C).

  1. Enjoy

Your beer can be enjoyed after it sat for about two or three weeks.

  1. Progress

Once you succeeded in making extract-only beer, try other more advanced recipes and further develop your homebrewing skills!